An American Abroad

Detroit: We Did It to Ourselves

Detroit's Michigan Central Station is now an American icon, a metaphor for the ruination of American industry and the hollowing out of once-vital American cities. Its very existence is commentary on our current inability to construct buildings that … [Continue reading]

Fourth of July, Toledo, Ohio in Color

Red, white and blue for the holiday, plus assorted greens, yellows, angels, and a cat. Photos I shot today in my hometown. … [Continue reading]

Fourth of July, Toledo, Ohio in Black & White

A photo essay: my hometown on this most American of holidays. I shot these today in my hometown. … [Continue reading]

Using Divvy Bikes to See Chicago

One of the cool things about Chicago is its network of 476 24/7 bicycle rental stations spread out across the city. Divvy Bikes are purpose-built, durable, three-speed machines. No one is going to confuse them with speedy road bikes, but they are … [Continue reading]

Anne Frank’s Message to Sousse

Terrorists today carried out an attack in Sousse, Tunisia, where I lived from August 2014 to February 2015. Much like the March 18 attack at the Bardo Museum in Tunis, today's slaughter was both an attack on specific human lives and an attack on the … [Continue reading]

At the Chess Records Studio

These are the back stairs to the musical history of Chicago and the world. In the 1950s, numerous blues and R&B legends walked up those stairs to this room, which back in the day was a recording studio. Muddy Waters, Willie Dixon, Koko … [Continue reading]

The Cove: Exemplar of a Neighborhood Bar

I'm particular about my bars. A good bar should be unpretentious. Welcoming. Not too loud but not too quiet. Old. Diverse in its clientele. A place where you can chat with strangers or sit quietly and read without being disturbed. There aren't … [Continue reading]

Nicaragua 2008: Down the Rio San Juan from San Carlos to El Castillo

Following our miserable night on the Lake Nicaragua ferry, we arrived in San Carlos, a town our guidebook charitably described as "scummy." Situated on the southeastern tip of the lake not far from the Costa Rican border, San Carlos indeed seemed to … [Continue reading]

Nicaragua 2008: A Most Uncomfortable Night

After three days at the luxurious Hotel Colonial in comfortable Granada, it was time for us to begin the second phase of our journey. Our plan was to get a ferry across Lake Nicaragua to San Carlos. There I would walk around the docks til we found a … [Continue reading]

Nicaragua 2008: The Perfection of Granada

Granada is located along the coast of the Lake Nicaragua, the world's twentieth largest lake. It was founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, and claims to be the first European city on mainland America. In the first centuries after its … [Continue reading]