An American Abroad

Meet The Beetles (of Peru)

Original Volkswagen Beetles were once common on the streets of Latin America. But now these sturdy machines are getting rarer. There are still some stalwart old Beetles on the roads of Peru. The ones I saw there seemed somehow brawnier than they … [Continue reading]

Parque de la Reserva

At the time of its dedication in 1929, Lima's Parque de la Reserva was intended as a monument to Peruvian troops who fought against Chilean forces in 1881 in The War of the Pacific. In 2007, though, the purpose and meaning of the park changed … [Continue reading]

Barranco Street Art 2

There's so much street art in Barranco that I couldn't fit all of it into my first post on the subject. The neighborhood is situated by the ocean and is divided by a gorge that cuts into the shoreline. A wooden footbridge over the gorge is so popular … [Continue reading]

Barranco Street Art 1

While the murals and street art of Miraflores are tasteful and elegant, those of Barranco are unruly and unrestrained. I've photographed graffiti and public art all over the world and from what I've seen, Barranco's murals are in the very top tier. … [Continue reading]

The Barranco Scene

If Miraflores seems out of place — a prosperous upper-middle class neighborhood in a country where the per capita GDP is only about $6,000 — Barranco feels out of time. The major public square in this small Lima neighborhood is centered around a … [Continue reading]

The Art of Miraflores

The Bad Girl invited me to Miraflores. The titular character in Mario Vargas Llosa’s novel arrives there as a teenager claiming to be from Chile and sets the hearts of the local boys aflutter. Vargas Llosa describes the neighborhood as a kind of … [Continue reading]

Learn from My Peruvian Travel Mistakes

From 2013 to 2015, I traveled regularly to countries in the developing world. I ventured to China, Southeast Asia, Malaysia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Tunisia, and Morocco. I developed good travel habits I was proud of and that served me well. … [Continue reading]

Return to Machu Picchu

The next morning, I rendezvoused with Ismael. The massage I’d had the night before had helped with my hip, but my right knee was still talking to me. I downed a healthy dose of Tylenol and we were on our way. A bus took us on the 25 minute drive from … [Continue reading]

Overnight in Aguas Calientes

I limped off the bus and found myself in Aguas Calientes, a town devoted solely to serving the hoards of travelers coming to Machu Picchu. In addition to offering room and board, AC is the point of departure for the buses that run up to Machu … [Continue reading]

Sucking Wind on the Inca Trail

Yorkee came to pick me up well before the sun rose on July 1. I stashed most of my luggage at the Encantada Hotel and took only a small day pack with me. We drove 90 minutes northwest out of Cusco through the blasted brown Andean countryside. As the … [Continue reading]