An American Abroad

Casa Blanca: Ponce de León is Not at Home

I know I had the right address: 1 Calle San Sebastián in Old San Juan is hard to miss. When you get there, you can’t go any farther.

There was even a plaque by the door identifying the place as Casa Blanca, the residence built for Juan Ponce de León and his family back in 1521. It was also the first fortification built by the Spanish in the San Juan islet.

Juan never actually moved in. He died in Florida after being shot by a poisoned arrow, but his family and descendants lived in Casa Blanca until the mid-18th century.

The place is not just one casa; it’s a whole compound of buildings. On the Sunday that I went, I didn’t see another person there–not even a security guard, a ticket-seller, or a docent. While it was cool to have the premises to myself, I found the lack of information, maps, or informational brochures disappointing. I wandered about the premises without any idea of what I was looking at or what its historical significance was. Gates were shut, but not locked. I wasn’t able to get inside any of the buildings. Supposedly visitors are allowed into the de León family dining room, but if that’s the case, I wasn’t able to figure out how to do it.

There were some pretty gardens and courtyards, though many parts were in need of gardening and repair.

This was the only living soul I encountered at Casa Blanca. Perhaps a descendant of a de León family pet?